Food for Thought

At the end of the summer of 1890, Claude Monet began an impressionist study of haystacks in fields of Giverny, France.  His flecks of colorful brushstrokes captured the changing angles of glinting sunlight on his subject in the morning, noon, and evening; in the summer, the fall, the winter and spring, in order to capture and represent how the same subject can take on a completely different look and feel depending on the sunlight.  

Monet's haystacks entered my mind this past weekend as I watched a sunset over the green hills of Harduf, in northeastern Israel.  The sun had passed beneath the mountains, but the light show had only just begun.  I was wrapped up in a warm sweater, with a mug of tea in hand against the chill and I watched the sky turn a vibrant, incandescent red and mute itself into a veil of deep, opulent lavender and I found myself reflecting on Monet's devotion and appreciation of the way light effects and landscape.  

For me, actually being in this location watching a sunset was quite surreal.  Two days earlier, I decided "what the hell", thrown a couple shirts in a backpack and joined the two Belgian filmmakers visiting us at Neve Eitan, on the road to Haifa.  The Belgians had been visiting Uri to make a documentary about wild edible plants and the connections they form between people in Israel, Jordan and the West Bank/Palestine. After 12 days of filming around Israel, they had gotten all the shots and interviews they needed, so now it was time for Ben to see a bit of the country and Jesse, to head home. 

As for myself, I was supposed to be attending a weekend retreat on Nonviolent Communication taking place at the Ecological House where I've been living.  I thought I'd make it back in time to participate the next morning, so we headed to Haifa for some sushi and beer before Jesse caught a train to Tel Aviv to for his flight and Ben and I stayed a night in a hostel in Haifa.    

Obviously, I wound up being completely wrong about making it back to Neve Eitan in time for Nonviolent Communicating.  Between technological malfunctions of two GPS devices and navigation based on guesswork, we didn't make it to the bus station and I joined Ben on the road to Harduf to visit some friends.  I have friends who live there too and had always wanted to visit, so it wasn't such a bad direction to be heading. 

Harduf is a community designed around the implementation of Anthropophy, a style of thought based on German philosopher Rudolf Steiner.  If you've ever visited a Waldorf school, then you're seeing Anthroposophy in action.  Arriving in Harduf is like making it to an island superimposed in Israel.  The entire society is dedicated to caring for each other, the earth and their neighbors.  There's a lot of cooperation between Harduf and its surrounding Arab neighbors.  

I met Ben's friends Nitsan and Lilach and their son Michael, then we all headed to a nearby Arab city, Shefar'am for hummus.  This was actually my first time visiting an Arab city, and I realized that I was actually a little nervous since so much time and energy has been spent not going to these places.  Everything turned out completely fine and we had some tasty hummus and strong Arab coffee.  

Wild, edible flowers in Harduf

Nitsan, Lilach and Michael took the two of us for a tour of the community where we saw the elementary school, high school and agricultural fields. Walking through fields with this group was a lot of fun.  Ben is a professional herbalist specializing in edible plants and running his own company for tours and catered meals in Belgium; Nitsan, Lilach and Michael are all practiced herbalists in the flora and fauna of the land around them.  So as we walked, someone would reach down and pick some shoots and leaves and say "Hey, you can eat this!" almost every yard.  

Nitsan, me, Michael and Lilach in front of a Harduf sunset

Really that's what it all comes down to: food and act of eating.  The ways in which we eat and drink together are an important aspect of being human and forming relationships.  These connections are so important, that the a transgression against it can be the motivation for nasty and brutish conflicts.  The Trojan War was partially caused by a breach in the traditions of breaking bread together and the guest-host relationship. When Paris kidnaps Helen from her husband Menelaus, Paris had been a guest in the house of Menelaus.  Ancient Greek society had very strict rules on the practice of hospitality and how the guest-host relationship was established surrounding the traditions of eating. A host welcomed his guest into his home in safety and did not ask his name or his purpose of visiting until after he had eaten and drank.  Once two people have supped together, they are bonded for life and do no harm to each other.  

Paris' infraction between the contract of sharing a meal together, caused a 10 year war and thousands of deaths, including his own.  So please, tip your waitress and think twice before you double-cross someone that you've had at your dinner table.

Food is such an amazing motivator, a force of interaction and experience. I used to say that I could tell if I'd be good friends with someone if they'd eat my mushrooms from my plate since they were not a food I liked. I am proud to announce that I have finally begun to eat them myself, so I'll have to find some other food based tell to determine friendships by. 

So many of my recent connections in Israel have been based around my desire to find like minded people who through eating and wanting to live a well balanced life.  My amazing travels and experiences from the past few weeks have all been possible because I had an inkling of a desire to find people who were knowledgeable and conscious about food.  It motivated me to find the Gilboa Cooperative and then lead me to Uri Mayer-Chissick's doorstep.  I've really made a community from all these different people who strive to eat better and live balanced lives.  Its given me the ability to travel to new cities, meet new people and feel welcomed at the dinner table. It's really driven me to places I never thought I could go for my own diet and lifestyle. 

Sunset in Harduf

Over the past weeks, I've been eating a predominately processed sugar-free, and whole wheat diet and I can honestly say that I feel pretty amazing. Not only does my body feel very strong and efficient, but I've felt able to trust myself and be open to new experiences. I've been having an adventure that I only dreamed of and thought was impossible for me. I didn't think I was brave, assertive, or capable enough to pull off this kind of independence and undertaking. But doors have opened and I walked through them.  I'm not going to lie, I've been having fun!  I can't remember the last time my lifestyle was devoted to conscious enjoyment of life. 

As I watched the light change on the landscape in Harduf, I reflected over food being a deus ex machina of good things in my life.  Eating is more than just a stimulation of your taste buds, mastication and the digestive process in order to fuel the body.  It does that and more; it's a whole body and mind experience that involves all of the senses being utilized. It can bring back memories, or create certain feelings inside you.  It can change your whole mindset and outlook on the world.

The Spice of Life

My day at the Local Center for Health and Community* typically starts with some almond milk, possibly chocolate almond milk, or a green smoothie made from freshly foraged plants around Kibbutz Neve Eitan. I like to think of it as hippie bottle service. Inevitably, someone will ask me if I'm hungry  and the answer is always a resounding "yes", even if I'm not because I'm full of chocolate almond milk.  Whatever is being cooked on the stove top or in the oven I will want to eat.  

From there, the path diverges, and I can't predict what route it's going to take.  I might be chopping up 20 cabbages for fermenting, or cataloging research articles, writing, weeding, stocking, or greeting a Belgian film crew making a documentary on foraging. No matter what I'm doing, I feel utilized and a part of something important. 

What is certain is that the day will be filled with wonder.  JRR Tolkien (a favorite of mine) wrote about the importance of leading a life filled with "childlike wonder" and delight.  I feel that each day here really channels that concept.  Actions that I would've regarded as mundane and routine, leave this realm and feel more extraordinary, like they've undergone a metamorphosis and emerged as the gateway to new knowledge.  Diced lemons and a little bit of salt leads to the magical process of chemical fermentation and the creation of a whole new substance and flavor. New worlds of tastes open up and my grasp on what spices and ingredients can do is challenged and reestablished daily.

My favorite sentence that I hear is "lunch will be ready soon" and I know it's going to be a wholesome serving of transcendental cuisine that will push the limits of reality and my definition of food and how I eat.

Homemade whole wheat fettucini with vegetables and cashew cream

Uri is a genius in the kitchen - I've heard some people use the expression "the ingredients really speak to me" and I imagine Uri must be communing and directing an intermingling of flavors that fuse together in such succinct harmony. The ingredients used in Uri's kitchen are all fresh, come from local sources and are in their most basic form you can find them in. Salt is from Eilat and is untreated by an anti-caking ingredient that is in most salt to make the crystals all evenly the same size; greens are gathered from fields around the area; turmeric is ground from roots unearthed in the garden outside and olive oil is from an ancient grove in the north.  

The recipes that Uri uses come from a lifelong study and search for the lost lore of ancient traditions, seasoning and aromas passed through ancient sources and antiquity. Uri sees beauty in everything around him and draws a lot of inspiration from the nature that he surrounds himself with, which is responsible for the full-fledged flavor of his food.  The methods he uses to cook are elements that ancient cultures recognized as good for the body and leading a healthy lifestyle. The processing and metallic taste of mass produced ingredients and food is stripped away, so all that remains is the pure, wholesome flavor and nutrition of Uri's cooking.  He's tapped into the truest potential in all of his flavor sources; the dishes he makes are simple and honest - salads, pasta, omelettes and stews, but I promise you, you've never tasted them like this.  

I have my mind blown regularly by what I get to eat and the amazing part is that it's so good to my taste buds, but also mutually beneficial to my gut and my body as a whole.  The diet I've been eating is for the most part vegan, no processed sugars, no creams, or bad fats, the grains are all whole and the bacteria in the bread helps my gut health.  I know this because Uri works with a microbiologist out of Tzfat, who has researched some of the bacteria in the the cultures of fermented foods from Uri's kitchen and discovered new bacteria that helps in the digestion of food.  

The entrance to the ecological house 

My days pass in Kibbutz Neve Eitan, where everything is in the leafy green flourish of winter vitality.  I live in the Ecological house which is home to around 4-7 Israelis in their late 20s or early 30s, who are all well-versed in baking up fresh loaves of bread and leading a sustainable existence.  It's refreshing to be around Israelis and completely immersed in their lifestyle. They're incredibly intelligent, open and insightful to talk with.  I haven't experienced anything like this in my five months in Israel and had I continued in my program, I would never had been lucky enough to have such a special experience like this.  

Garden and entrance to the humble abode of the LCHC

Over at the Local Center, I work with Tami and Hila - Uri's support system and earnest cooks in their own right.  Hila works with me teaching me how to make pastes,spreads, yogurts and almond milk.  Tami wields Uri's schedule, supplies structure and context for the work that we do.  They create an atmosphere of love, supportive, laughter and fresh baked bread and I always feel really honored to get to work with such motivating women.  

I'm a lone American in this place, but I feel more connected and part of a community than ever.  I'm encouraged to grow and ask questions from everyone around me and they're open to sharing their perspective and knowledge with me.  It's astounding that I've only been here for a week; the change in me is visceral - I'm relaxed, I smile more, I worry less and I dream more.  I don't regret that I left the constructs of my program for a moment because the freedom and happiness I'm finding here is genuine.  

Neve Eitan is located at the very edge of Israel and on a clear day, you can make out individual houses on the mountainsides in Jordan.  Birds dip and dive in the sky above grabbing a quick meal on their migration to Africa.  It's peaceful and you hardly notice the passing of time.  The beauty of the area is just stunning and hard to wrap your mind around.  At night, it's pitch black and jackals sing as I fall asleep before another anything but ordinary day at the Center.  

Bird migration viewing area between winter rainstorms

* We're in the process of trying to settle on an English name for the Center. Perhaps after reading this blog post, you have some ideas? Feel free to comment and share! - HS